Rijeka, Croatia

Why Rijeka works as a residency city

Rijeka is one of those places that quietly supports complex, research-heavy, and socially engaged work without drowning you in hype. It’s an industrial port city on the Adriatic with a strong contemporary art infrastructure and a history of experimentation, reinforced when it became European Capital of Culture in 2020.

The city has a long-running commitment to artist residencies, especially through the Kamov Residency Programme, named after avant-garde writer Janko Polić Kamov. The program’s ethos of questioning, provocation, and progress has shaped how Rijeka thinks about visiting artists: not as cultural decoration, but as people who come to ask difficult questions and test new formats.

If your practice leans toward research, writing, publishing, urban space, activism, or experimental forms, Rijeka gives you:

• A manageable, compact city with a real art and culture ecosystem
• A port and industrial backdrop that suits documentary, site-specific, or socially engaged practices
• Access to the sea and nearby islands for reflection and fieldwork
• Less competition and saturation than bigger centres like Zagreb

Key residency programs in Rijeka

Rijeka doesn’t have dozens of residencies. It has a small number of programs that are quite focused, which can be a strength if you want depth over volume.

Kamov Residency Programme (KAMOV Artist-in-Residence)

This is the residency most artists associate with Rijeka.

Who runs it

• Founded by the Department of Culture of the City of Rijeka
• Coordinated by the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Rijeka (MMSU)
• In partnership with City Library Rijeka and Croatian Cultural Centre Sušak

What it focuses on

The Kamov program supports creators primarily in:

• Visual arts and audiovisual practices
• Literature and writing
• New media and experimental practices
• Performing arts in some formats
• Research-oriented, open-ended, or post-studio work

The emphasis is on time for thinking, research, and experimentation rather than purely on production quotas. The program has hosted hundreds of artists, theorists, and cultural workers from Croatia and abroad.

Public engagement

Residents are usually expected to present their work to the Rijeka public in some form, which can be very flexible:

• Lecture or artist talk
• Workshop or reading group
• Exhibition, screening, or performance
• Presentation of research in progress

This expectation shapes how you should frame your proposal. It helps if you can articulate not just what you want to work on, but how you might share it with local audiences.

Who it suits best

• Artists with a research-heavy, process-based practice
• Writers, poets, essayists, and literary translators
• Curators and theorists working on critical or experimental projects
• Artists interested in urban space, social change, and non-institutional culture
• Practitioners who enjoy public engagement and conversation, not only studio time

Tips for approaching Kamov

• Frame your project in relation to Rijeka itself: port city, industrial and post-socialist context, European Capital of Culture legacy, and non-institutional culture.
• Think about how you can use institutional partners like MMSU, the City Library, or Croatian Cultural Centre Sušak in the project, not just as venues but as collaborators.
• Plan a realistic public event that fits your practice; it can be small-scale but intentional.

Riso and Friends Residency (publication-focused)

This is a shorter, more specialized residency in Rijeka, centred on publishing and risograph printing.

Core idea

The residency gives a collective up to three weeks to develop and finalize a publication. It holds space for artists and activists working with print as a political and artistic tool.

What you can work on

• Artist books
• Comics or graphic narratives
• Zines and small press experiments
• Essay-based publications
• Other printed formats blending text, image, and design

You learn to print and self-publish using risograph, which is great if you have a strong publishing concept but limited access to tools at home.

Who it’s for

• Collectives and small groups
• Feminist, queer, and activist formations
• Artist-run and anarchist-adjacent projects
• People curious about risograph, even with no prior technical experience

Context and support

• Funded partially by the City of Rijeka and independent sources
• Runs in cooperation with Deltalab / Center for urban transition, architecture and urbanism

If your work sits at the intersection of politics, print, and collective practice, this can be an ideal short, intense residency. It’s especially strong for projects that need concentrated time and technical support to go from draft to finished publication.

Other connections and cross-residencies

Beyond local programs, Rijeka sometimes appears in wider residency networks and partnerships. For example, Kamov has been involved with crossed or itinerant residency formats tied to European cultural projects. These can occasionally bring artists to Rijeka via a larger network or festival route rather than a standalone open call.

If you are already part of a European network (through curators, institutions, or earlier residencies), keep an eye out for calls mentioning Rijeka or MMSU in the context of cross-residencies or itinerant programs.

The art scene and institutions you’ll actually interact with

For most visiting artists in Rijeka, a handful of institutions and spaces will form the backbone of your experience.

Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Rijeka (MMSU)

MMSU is one of the city’s central cultural players and closely tied to the Kamov residency. It hosts exhibitions, research projects, and public programs tied to contemporary art, theory, and critical practices.

For residency artists, MMSU can be:

• A partner for public presentations
• A resource for curatorial feedback and institutional context
• A place to meet local artists, curators, and cultural workers

City Library Rijeka

Not just a place to read, the library can be a partner for writers, translators, and publishing-focused artists. Expect potential formats like readings, book discussions, and collaborative workshops with local audiences.

Croatian Cultural Centre Sušak

This venue supports performing arts and interdisciplinary events. It’s a potential host for performances, talks, screenings, and hybrid formats that sit between performance and visual art.

Deltalab / Center for urban transition, architecture and urbanism

Deltalab is highly relevant if your practice touches on urbanism, spatial justice, architecture, or publication-based and discursive activities. It’s also associated with the Riso and Friends residency.

Artists working with city space, logistics, archives, or social geography tend to find strong resonance here.

Independent and non-institutional culture

Rijeka has a history of independent, experimental culture that runs alongside official institutions. This scene is smaller than in major capitals, but it is accessible. If your work is activist, DIY, or collective, you’ll likely find allies in:

• Artist-run initiatives and project spaces
• Independent publishers and zine makers
• Local NGOs working on social, feminist, or queer issues

Ask your residency coordinator for introductions; things often move through relationships rather than public listings.

Where you’ll actually live and work: neighborhoods and atmosphere

Rijeka is compact, but the neighborhoods have distinct atmospheres that matter when you’re working for a month or more.

Sušak

Located on the eastern side of the city, Sušak is home to key cultural institutions, including Croatian Cultural Centre Sušak. It’s very practical if your residency has regular events or collaborations there.

Sušak can feel slightly removed from the tourist flow, which helps when you want a working rhythm with easy access to both the centre and local communities.

Center / Korzo

Korzo is the central pedestrian street and civic heart of Rijeka. If you like to write or sketch in cafes, watch daily life, and be close to most services, this is where you’ll probably spend a lot of time, even if you’re housed elsewhere.

Studio or accommodation near the centre gives you:

• Quick access to MMSU and other cultural venues
• Good public transport connections
• Cafes and bars where you can meet local artists and students

Pećine

Pećine is a coastal residential area with small beaches and a quieter feel. It’s often appealing if you want a bit more distance from the centre, more silence, and visual access to the sea.

This can work well if your practice benefits from walking, swimming, or daily time by the water, while still being close enough to cycle or bus into the centre for events.

Trsat

Trsat sits higher up, near the fortress and parts of the university. Expect more hills, views, and a slightly more suburban atmosphere.

It’s suitable if you prefer a quieter environment, don’t mind the climb (or bus), and like being near academic energy and student life.

Delta and port-adjacent areas

These areas carry Rijeka’s industrial and logistical identity: port infrastructure, warehouses, transitional urban spaces. Artists working with themes like labour, migration, logistics, or ecology often find strong visual and conceptual material here.

Even if you don’t live in this area, it’s worth walking and photographing it as part of your research.

Cost of living and practical logistics

Compared with Western European capitals, Rijeka is more affordable, though coastal Croatia has seen rising costs.

Budget snapshot

Think in rough terms:

• Housing: your biggest variable. If the residency provides accommodation, your monthly costs drop significantly. Independent rentals can fluctuate by season and proximity to the centre or coast.
• Food: moderate. Cooking for yourself from local markets and supermarkets keeps costs reasonable. Eating out daily adds up but is still not at big-city prices.
• Studios: if not covered by a residency, ask local organizations about shared spaces, project rooms, or short-term arrangements.
• Cafes / social life: manageable for an artist budget, especially if you’re selective about how often you eat or drink out.

For many artists, the main question isn’t whether Rijeka is cheap or expensive in the abstract, but how much the residency itself covers. Programs that provide housing and at least partial support for work or living costs can make a month or more in Rijeka quite realistic.

Getting there and getting around

Rijeka can be reached by train, bus, or car from within Croatia and neighbouring countries. Air connections exist via regional airports, sometimes involving a transfer to reach the city itself.

Once you are in Rijeka:

• The central areas are walkable, especially around Korzo and the port.
• Local buses connect hillier or more distant neighbourhoods like Trsat or Pećine.
• The terrain is not flat everywhere, so plan for stairs and slopes if you walk a lot.

If your practice involves large installations or heavy materials, ask ahead about:

• Elevator access in your accommodation or studio
• Loading access at galleries and institutions
• Local hardware stores, art supply shops, and print studios

Visas and paperwork

Requirements depend on your nationality and length of stay.

• EU/EEA/Swiss artists: short stays are usually straightforward, but longer stays can still require registration with local authorities.
• Non-EU artists: you need to check current Croatian entry and residence rules. Many residencies provide an official invitation letter, which you can use for visa applications and proof of purpose of stay.

Before committing, ask the residency:

• What kind of documentation they provide (invitation letters, contracts, proof of accommodation)
• Whether they help with local registration and basic orientation
• If they can sign any forms your consulate requires

Always double-check with the Croatian consulate or embassy and official government sites, since regulations can shift.

Seasons, timing, and working rhythm

The time of year shapes your experience and sometimes how the residency itself functions.

Spring and early autumn

These are often sweet spots:

• Milder weather and walkable temperatures
• Regular cultural programming at MMSU and other venues
• Less tourist pressure than peak summer

Summer

Pros:

• More outdoor activity and events
• Easy access to the sea and nearby islands
• Lively city life, good for observational and social practices

Cons:

• Hotter and sometimes humid weather
• Potentially more noise and distraction in central areas
• Some institutional schedules can slow or shift

Winter

Pros:

• Calmer city atmosphere, good for focused studio or writing work
• Lower tourist presence

Cons:

• Fewer outdoor social events
• Shorter daylight, which can affect photographic or outdoor practices

When planning applications, track calls from:

• Kamov Residency Programme and MMSU
• City of Rijeka culture department
• Deltalab and other independent initiatives

Calls often cluster seasonally, so it helps to follow these institutions on their own websites or through mobility platforms that list residencies in Croatia.

Local art communities and how to plug in

Rijeka’s scene is small enough that you can get to know people quickly, which is a real advantage for a short residency. The community includes:

• Contemporary artists across visual, performance, and media practices
• Writers, translators, and critics
• Curators and researchers tied to MMSU and other institutions
• Librarians and educators involved in public programs
• Independent publishers and zine-makers
• NGOs and activists working on social, feminist, queer, and urban issues

Residencies here often expect some type of public exchange. Common formats include:

• Open studios or presentations of work in progress
• Artist talks and moderated conversations
• Workshops with local students, artists, or communities
• Readings, screenings, and zine launches

If you want your time in Rijeka to resonate beyond your studio, arrive with an idea of what kind of public moment fits your practice and your capacity. It doesn’t have to be a polished exhibition; it can be a critical conversation, a reading, or a small workshop.

Is Rijeka a good fit for you?

Rijeka tends to work especially well if you:

• Have a research or writing-driven practice that benefits from institutional support but not constant spectacle
• Enjoy engaging with local audiences through talks, workshops, or collaborative events
• Are interested in port cities, industrial and post-industrial landscapes, and urban transitions
• Work in publishing, zines, or artists’ books and want to experiment with risograph printing
• Prefer a compact, interconnected scene where you can actually meet people rather than a huge, anonymous art market city

Rijeka is less ideal if you need:

• A very secluded, rural retreat away from any city structure
• Large-scale production facilities for heavy fabrication
• A luxury-style fully serviced residency
• A huge commercial gallery scene

If your work thrives on context, conversation, and time to think, Rijeka can be a strong choice. Start by looking closely at the Kamov Residency Programme and publication-focused opportunities like Riso and Friends, then build outward into the city’s institutions, port landscapes, and independent scenes as your project develops.