Rijeka, Croatia

Why artists choose Rijeka for residencies

Rijeka sits in an interesting sweet spot: big enough to have a serious contemporary-art ecosystem, small enough that you can actually meet people, follow threads, and see the impact of your work while you’re there.

Artists tend to choose Rijeka for a few overlapping reasons:

• A compact, active scene – A strong contemporary-art museum, independent initiatives, performance spaces, and cross-disciplinary projects, all within a walkable city.
• Port and post-industrial context – Shipyards, docks, warehouses, and industrial architecture shape the city’s atmosphere, which suits site-specific, critical, or socially engaged projects.
• Residencies as a key entry point – Programs explicitly invite visual artists, writers, performers, audiovisual and new media practitioners, researchers, and theorists.
• European Capital of Culture legacy – The Rijeka 2020 ECoC year left infrastructure, networks, and habits of international collaboration that residencies still tap into.

If you want a research-friendly residency, access to curators and institutions, and a city open to experimental or interdisciplinary work, Rijeka is a solid fit.

Kamov Residency Programme: institutional anchor

The Kamov Residency Programme (also called the KAMOV Artist-in-Residence Program) is Rijeka’s best-known international residency and a core gateway into the city’s art life.

What Kamov actually offers

Kamov is designed less as a production factory and more as a base for inspiration, research, experiment, and conceptual development. Depending on the specific call and partner, you can expect some combination of:

• Short- or longer-term stays in Rijeka.
• Time and space to develop new work, research, or writing.
• Support for open-ended, post-studio, and research-based practices, not only finished objects.
• Public-facing elements: talks, workshops, lectures, exhibitions, screenings, or other presentations to local audiences.
• Contact with curators, librarians, cultural workers, and local artists.

The program has hosted over 500 artists, theorists, and creators from Croatia and abroad, so you’re entering a context with a track record and a substantial alumni network.

Who Kamov is built for

Kamov is a good match if you work in:

• Visual arts – especially conceptual, research-driven, or context-specific practice.
• Writing and literature – prose, poetry, essay, literary research, hybrid text-image practices.
• Performing arts – performance, live art, experimental theatre or movement tied to research.
• New media / audiovisual – video, sound, interactive or expanded-cinema approaches.
• Socially engaged or interdisciplinary research – projects connecting art with social studies, activism, or community work.

The program’s name nods to Rijeka writer Janko Polić Kamov, known for an avant-garde, boundary-pushing literary approach. That attitude carries into the residency’s interest in questioning, provocation, and progress.

Institutional structure and partners

Kamov’s structure gives you access to several layers of the city’s cultural fabric:

• Founder: Department of Culture of the City of Rijeka.
• Coordinator: Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art of Rijeka (MMSU), the city’s main contemporary-art institution.
• Key partners: Rijeka City Library and the Croatian Cultural Centre Sušak (HKD), among others.

This means you’re not just placed in a room with a key and left alone. You’re plugged into a network that spans visual art, literature, performance, theory, and public programs.

What Kamov tends to expect from you

Residency formats shift over time, but patterns repeat:

• Public presentation – at some point, you usually meet the Rijeka public through a talk, workshop, exhibition, screening, or similar.
• Engagement with context – the program encourages projects that connect to Rijeka’s artistic, cultural, or social situation, rather than importing a project unchanged.
• Professional attitude – communication with staff, clarity about what you can realistically achieve, and respect for shared spaces and local partners go a long way.

Kamov is a good choice if you want your residency to be in dialogue with an institution and a city, not just a private retreat.

More info: kamov-residency.org

Riso and Friends Residency: print, publishing, and collectives

If your practice leans toward zines, artist books, or activist publishing, the Riso and Friends Residency is the Rijeka program that speaks your language.

What Riso and Friends focuses on

This residency is structured as a short, intensive period (up to around three weeks) for collectives to finalize a publication and learn risograph printing. During the stay, participants typically:

• Work on an artist book, comic, zine, essay, or other publication.
• Learn how to use a risograph and understand self-publishing workflows.
• Engage with local partners around urbanism, community, or critical practice.

No prior risograph experience is required, which opens it up to artists, writers, designers, researchers, and organizers who want to step into print for the first time.

Who this residency is for

Riso and Friends is deliberately collective-oriented. It especially welcomes:

• Feminist, queer, activist, artist, and anarchist collectives.
• Groups exploring collaborative authorship or political publishing.
• Designers and illustrators interested in hands-on, small-press production.
• Researchers who want to translate work into an accessible printed format.

The residency is supported by the City of Rijeka and organized in cooperation with DELTALAB, Center for urban transition, architecture and urbanism. That partnership aligns well with projects touching on urban issues, spatial justice, or critical city-making.

More info: risoandfriends.net

Rijeka’s art ecosystem: institutions, spaces, and networks

Residencies in Rijeka are tightly woven into local institutions and independent culture. Understanding this ecosystem helps you shape proposals that make sense to curators and selection panels.

Key institutions you’ll run into

• Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (MMSU) – central hub for contemporary art, and coordinator of Kamov. Exhibitions, research projects, symposia, and residency-related events often happen here.
• Croatian Cultural Centre Sušak (HKD) – venue for performances, interdisciplinary projects, and public presentations of residency work.
• Rijeka City Library – important for writers, researchers, and anyone working with text, archives, or reading groups.
• DELTALAB – linked to urban transition, architecture, and urbanism; relevant if your practice addresses the city, space, and community.
• HNK Ivana pl. Zajca – the city theatre; not a residency provider, but a potential crossover partner for performance or interdisciplinary work.

MMSU has openly framed residencies as part of a broader conversation about how art is produced and supported. One example was a symposium titled “Two Perspectives on Residencies in Visual Arts”, where organizers and artists publicly discussed funding, space, public engagement, and evaluation of residencies. That kind of programming signals that Rijeka takes residency formats seriously, not just as short-term rentals.

Independent and non-institutional strands

Beyond official spaces, Rijeka has a living independent layer that tends to show up in:

• Artist-led initiatives and collectives.
• Experimental performance nights and screenings.
• Zine and small-press events, especially around programs like Riso and Friends.
• Socially engaged projects linked to neighborhood and urban issues.

Residency programs often expect you to plug into this layer through workshops, talks, or collaborative events, not just remain within the museum walls.

City layout, neighborhoods, and where to stay

Rijeka is compact enough that you can cross key areas on foot or by a short bus ride, but different neighborhoods offer different atmospheres. Even if your residency provides housing, it helps to know the basic geography.

Areas artists usually find practical

• Centar / City Centre – Dense, walkable, and where a lot of cultural life clusters. Good access to galleries, MMSU, bars, and everyday services.
• Delta / Molo Longo area – Near the harbor, waterfront, and ongoing urban transformations. Useful if your work touches on port, logistics, or post-industrial landscapes.
• Sušak – Across the Rječina river, historically a separate town. Culturally active, with the Croatian Cultural Centre Sušak and a slightly different energy than the main center.
• Trsat – Hilltop neighborhood overlooking the city. Quieter, with a more residential and academic feel; good if you want some distance while staying bus-connected.
• Pećine – Residential and closer to the sea, often chosen by people who want easier access to water and a calmer base.

If the residency does not specify housing, staying near the center or Sušak usually makes it easier to reach MMSU, venues, and social events without relying on a car.

Working conditions: studios, production, and research

Rijeka generally attracts artists who are comfortable with flexible workspaces and context-based practice rather than heavy fabrication.

Space and facilities

• Kamov – Focuses on research, conceptual development, and public presentations. Expect more of a working-living setup and access to institutional infrastructure, rather than an industrial workshop full of machines.
• Riso and Friends – Offers risograph access and guidance, which is ideal for printed matter but not necessarily for large-scale sculpture or high-tech media labs.
• Independent studios – Exist, but are less centralized than in some bigger cities. Short-stay visitors usually rely on residency spaces or temporary arrangement with local partners instead of renting a separate studio.

If your practice needs specialized equipment (large kilns, darkrooms, metal workshops), factor in the possibility that you may need to adapt the project or bring portable tools.

Cost of living, budgets, and everyday life

Compared to bigger Western European art cities, Rijeka tends to be more affordable, but prices vary with season and location.

Budget basics

• Housing – A room in a shared flat is often the most affordable option if housing is not included. Studio apartments near the center or the sea can be significantly higher, especially in peak travel months.
• Food – Groceries and markets are generally manageable on an artist budget; eating out regularly adds up but is still moderate compared to larger capitals.
• Transport – City buses and walking cover most daily needs. Occasional taxis are available but not essential if you plan your routes.
• Studio / work costs – If the residency provides workspace and basic infrastructure, your main added expense is usually materials rather than rent.

Because rental markets and prices shift, it makes sense to cross-check any assumptions against current listings and ask residency organizers what is realistically covered.

How to get there and move around

Connecting to Rijeka is straightforward if you are already in Europe, and manageable from further away with an extra leg of travel.

Arriving in Rijeka

• Bus – Often the most practical option from Croatian cities like Zagreb, Split, or Zadar, as well as regional hubs in neighboring countries.
• Train – Exists but may be less convenient or slower than buses for some routes.
• Car – The motorway system brings you close; parking in the center can be limited or paid, so check with your residency about options.
• Ferries – Coastal and island links exist along the Adriatic but are usually supplementary rather than your main way in.

Getting around during your residency

• The city center, waterfront, and Sušak are walkable for most everyday trips.
• Buses connect hillier residential areas and peripheral neighborhoods.
• Bikes can work in flatter parts, though some streets are steep.
• A car is rarely necessary if your work is centered on MMSU, downtown venues, and accessible neighborhoods.

Visas, paperwork, and institutional support

Residency programs usually help with invitation letters and local contacts, but the legal logistics remain your responsibility.

General orientation

• EU/EEA/Swiss artists – Often face fewer administrative barriers for short stays, though registration rules may apply.
• Non-EU artists – Need to check visa requirements for Croatia and may need to arrange a specific type of visa or temporary stay permission for longer residencies.

Common documents include proof of accommodation, health insurance, financial means, and a formal invitation from the residency host. Start those conversations early with Kamov or other organizers so you know exactly what they can provide and what you must handle.

Official sources such as the Croatian Ministry of Foreign and European Affairs and local consulates are the reference points for current rules; residency staff can complement that by explaining what has worked for previous artists.

Local art life: public events and ways to get involved

Residencies in Rijeka are rarely bubble experiences. You’re expected to show up, share work, and join the city’s cultural conversation.

Typical public formats

• Artist talks – Informal presentations of practice and research at MMSU, libraries, or cultural centers.
• Workshops – Skill-sharing or collaborative sessions with students, local artists, or community members.
• Exhibitions and screenings – Small-scale presentations, often at the end of a residency period.
• Open studios – Opportunities for locals to see work in progress and talk with visiting artists.
• Symposia and discussions – Panels or round tables about residencies, art production, and cultural policy, like the MMSU event on residency models.

Residencies often frame these activities as mutual exchange: you bring creative perspectives and skills, and in return you gain a real sense of how your work lands in a different context.

Who Rijeka residencies are best for

Rijeka tends to work best for artists who appreciate relational and research-based modes of working.

You’ll probably enjoy Rijeka if you:

• Work in visual arts, performance, writing, audiovisual, new media, or publishing.
• Are comfortable with research-heavy, open-ended residencies where outcomes are more than just produced objects.
• Want institutional contact rather than complete isolation.
• Are interested in post-industrial environments, port cities, and social questions.
• Value public engagement and conversation with local communities.

Rijeka may not be ideal if you:

• Need a fully rural, silent retreat far from any city infrastructure.
• Rely on a large commercial gallery network or art market during your residency.
• Need extensive, high-end technical facilities that are costly or complex to set up.

How to start planning a residency in Rijeka

To move from idea to action:

• Study recent projects and open calls on Kamov’s site and the MMSU website (site structure may change, so search for current residency info).
• Check AIR_J and Reviewed by Artists for updated listings and artist reviews.
• For collective publishing work, follow announcements on Riso and Friends and related social channels.
• Map your project to Rijeka’s context: port, industry, social movements, language, and local institutions.
• Draft a proposal that clearly explains what you will research or create, how you’ll involve the local public, and what kind of support you actually need.

Rijeka rewards artists who arrive with a clear intention but remain open to adjusting once they encounter the city. If you treat the residency as a collaboration with the place, not just rented time, the city usually responds in kind.