Reviewed by Artists

City Guide

Raman Niwas, India

How to use Kriti Gallery & Anandvan Residency as your base for deep work in Banaras

Why Raman Niwas pulls artists in

Raman Niwas, in Mahmoor Ganj, sits slightly back from the most intense parts of Varanasi. You still get the city’s density of ritual, sound, and craft, but your daily base is a garden compound instead of a crowded lane. That mix is why many artists choose to live and work here instead of right on the ghats.

This part of Varanasi works well if you want:

  • Easy access to the ghats and old city without being overwhelmed 24/7
  • Quiet studio time in a garden setting, with birds and distant street noise instead of constant horns
  • Connections to craftspeople who live and work across the city, especially silk weavers and other artisan communities
  • Simple logistics: rickshaws, shops, and daily needs within short reach

You are basically perched between the older riverfront areas and the more residential, everyday city. For residency life, that’s a very practical place to be.

Kriti Gallery & Anandvan Residency: how it actually works

The main residency in Raman Niwas is Kriti Gallery & Artist Residency, now under the umbrella of the Banaras Cultural Foundation (BCF). The residency program is also described as the Anandvan Residency, named after an old term for Varanasi meaning “Forest of Bliss”.

Here’s what to expect as an artist using this place as your base.

The residency set-up

The residency is housed in one of the few remaining garden houses in the city. Inside the compound you’ll find:

  • Four 2-room studios: each with a double bedroom (AC + fan), a private bathroom (hot/cold water, WC, shower), and a separate studio space with white walls and cement floor
  • One writer’s studio: a one-room studio with a mezzanine bed, lounge space, desk, and private bathroom
  • A common kitchen and dining space: where residents share meals and informal conversation
  • A large, lush garden: quiet outdoor workspaces, reading spots, and a buffer from the city
  • The gallery on the same campus: a separate space used for exhibitions, talks, screenings, and events

The residency has hosted over 200 artists from around 26 countries since around 2006, in fields including visual arts, photography, architecture, writing, performance, music, and research. You’re not expected to fit a narrow mold.

Program style: unstructured and self-directed

Kriti / Anandvan is intentionally free and unstructured. That means:

  • No mandatory group program or syllabus
  • No obligation to produce an exhibition
  • No requirement to leave work behind
  • Freedom to shape your own balance of studio time and city exploration

The team can help with introductions, city orientation, and practical questions (“Where can I find a silk-weaving workshop?” “Who can help me with fabrication?”), but they won’t dictate your project. This setup suits artists who already have a clear internal engine, or who want open-ended research time.

Who the residency is for

The residency openly invites:

  • Visual artists (painting, photography, installation, sculpture, mixed media, etc.)
  • Architects, designers, and spatial practitioners
  • Writers and poets (including those working on long-form research or manuscripts)
  • Art historians and researchers
  • Directors, performers, and musicians
  • Publishers and other creative professionals

The common thread is an interest in engaging with Varanasi at some level — visually, historically, socially, or spiritually — not just using the residency as an isolated studio rental.

Facilities and daily life

A typical day might look like this:

  • Morning: working in your studio or in the garden, with daylight and relative quiet
  • Midday: shared lunch in the common dining space, chatting with other residents
  • Afternoon: fieldwork in the city (ghats, workshops, archives, markets)
  • Evening: back in the studio or attending an event at the gallery if something is on

Expect basic but comfortable infrastructure, not a high-tech production lab. For many practices, the garden and private studio are the main “equipment.”

Support and local links

Kriti and BCF position themselves as a bridge between visiting artists and Varanasi’s cultural fabric. They highlight connections to:

  • Silk weaving units and textile workshops
  • Block printers and print studios
  • Potters and clay-based workshops
  • Woodworkers, sculptors, and metalworkers
  • Local musicians and performance spaces
  • Educational institutions, including Banaras Hindu University and other universities in the city

The residency can, on request, help arrange project assistance by local collaborators who are used to working with international artists and can help you navigate the city and its cultural codes.

Using Varanasi as your extended studio

Staying at Raman Niwas gives you a base to treat Varanasi not just as a “subject” but as an extended studio and archive.

Fieldwork: where artists actually go

Depending on your practice, you might build a rhythm around:

  • The ghats and riverfront: for drawing, photography, writing, sound recording, or observing ritual life over time
  • Weaving neighborhoods: where Banarasi silk is produced in small workshops and homes
  • Markets and street corners: for everyday gestures, colors, and sounds that rarely make it into tourist brochures
  • Temples and shrines: as research into iconography, architecture, or devotional practice (with respect for local norms)
  • Universities: to connect with students, academics, and cultural events
  • Sarnath and other nearby sites: for comparative study of Buddhist and Hindu sites, or to escape the central city for a day

Because the residency is 3–4 km from the Ganges and old city, a lot of residents adopt a pattern of “city in the morning or late afternoon, studio in the middle or evening.” You’re close enough to dip in and out, not so close that the noise and crowd never let up.

What kinds of projects work well here

Residencies at Raman Niwas tend to suit artists who want to:

  • Observe and record: long-form projects in drawing, photography, video, or writing that develop over repeated visits to the same sites
  • Work with craft and material culture: textiles, print, wood, clay, and other local techniques, in collaboration with artisans
  • Explore ritual and time: dawn and dusk, daily cycles, festival rhythms, processions
  • Build research-heavy projects: artists who combine practice with reading, interviews, or archival work
  • Develop performance or sound-based work: using the city’s soundscape and musical traditions as source material

If you rely on heavy fabrication, kilns, or industrial equipment, you’ll need to plan ahead, as the residency itself is more of a clean studio and garden environment.

Working conditions: climate and sensory load

Varanasi can be intense on all fronts: heat, dust, noise, crowds, and very early mornings on the river. That’s part of the draw but also a real physical factor. Artists usually find these conditions easier to work with during the cooler months, especially if their practice involves a lot of walking and outdoor observation.

The garden setting at Raman Niwas helps. You can retreat, reset your senses, and process material away from the most crowded streets. Building a routine that includes quiet time, hydration, and manageable commute distances will keep your energy stable for longer projects.

Practical life as an artist in Raman Niwas

To get the most out of a residency here, it helps to understand the practical side of living and working in this part of Varanasi.

Cost of living and budgeting

Compared with Indian megacities, Varanasi is relatively affordable, but residency costs and personal habits have a big impact. At Raman Niwas, the main fixed element is your residency fee (check current details directly with the program). On top of that, budget for:

  • Local transport: cycle rickshaws and auto-rickshaws are the usual way to reach the ghats, markets, and workshops
  • Food: the residency provides regular meals, but you may still eat out, explore cafés, or buy snacks and ingredients
  • Project materials: paper, paints, film, fabric, wood, or digital hardware; some things are easy to find locally, others you may want to bring
  • Entrance or guide fees at certain sites, if relevant to your research
  • Unexpected costs: shipping work home, extra travel inside India, or equipment replacement

If your practice uses specialized materials (for example, specific printmaking inks or archival papers), consider packing them or confirming availability before you arrive.

The neighborhood: Mahmoor Ganj and around

Mahmoor Ganj is a functioning residential and commercial area, not a tourist strip. Expect:

  • Daily-life shops: small groceries, pharmacies, street food, and basic services
  • Local rhythms: school traffic in the mornings, family life in the evenings
  • Mix of quiet and movement: the residency compound is a calm pocket, but the surrounding streets are still very active

This balance lets you step into the city and back out again. If you want to be in the thick of the old lanes every night, you can still easily get there; you just won’t sleep there.

Getting around

To move between Raman Niwas and other parts of Varanasi, most artists use:

  • Cycle rickshaws: slow but good for short distances and narrow lanes
  • Auto-rickshaws: faster and better for longer trips or hot days
  • Walking: once you’re in an area like the old city or the ghats, walking is often the easiest way to move
  • Taxis or app-based cars (where available): especially for airport or train station runs, or carrying bulky materials

Traffic can be unpredictable, so assume a generous buffer when planning visits, meetings, or documentation trips. Short distances can still take time in peak hours.

Access, comfort, and limitations

A few practical constraints to keep in mind:

  • Accessibility: the residency has been described as not wheelchair accessible; if you have mobility needs, discuss details directly with the team
  • Noise and air quality: the garden mitigates some of it, but this is still an Indian city; masks and earplugs can help during fieldwork
  • Studio scale: good for medium-scale works, research, and writing; less suited to large metal fabrication or industrial processes
  • Health and food: if you have dietary restrictions, clarify what can be accommodated in shared meals and plan to supplement with your own cooking when needed

Setting realistic expectations will help you design a project that fits the environment instead of fighting it.

Visas, timing, and planning your stay

Any residency in Varanasi will sit inside a wider frame of visas, timing, and preparation. Raman Niwas is no exception.

Visa basics for artists

Visa categories vary by nationality and by the exact structure of the residency. To stay on the safe side:

  • Ask the residency for an official invitation letter outlining your stay
  • Check with the Indian consulate or embassy in your country about the correct visa type for creating work, giving talks, or showing in exhibitions
  • Check if any funding, stipends, or fees attached to your stay influence the visa category

Even if you see artists talk about doing residencies on a tourist visa, rely on official guidance rather than hearsay; rules shift and are enforced differently by location.

When to be in Varanasi

The timing of your residency will change your experience significantly:

  • Cool, dry season: typically most comfortable for walking, outdoor research, and long days in the city
  • Hot season: more physically demanding; the studio and garden become important shelters during the scorching hours
  • Monsoon: lush, dramatic light and clouds, but humidity and rain can disrupt travel and outdoor work

Think about your project: if you want crowded festivals and processions, you may aim for peak ritual periods; if you want slower, more introspective research, you might choose a quieter stretch.

How long to stay

Kriti / Anandvan typically hosts artists for one to three months, and sometimes longer. One month can work for focused projects or a specific research question. Two to three months often suit artists who want:

  • Time to get past initial culture shock and visual overload
  • Multiple cycles of fieldwork, reflection, and making
  • Deeper collaborations with craftspeople or local communities

When planning your stay, leave a margin before and after any public outcomes (open studios, talks) to give yourself breathing room for last-minute changes or discoveries.

Connecting with the local art scene

Raman Niwas gives you a quiet base, but the broader Varanasi ecosystem is what will really feed your work.

Kriti Gallery as your anchor

The gallery on the same campus is one of your key entry points into the local scene. It has shown Indian and international artists across photography, painting, performance, film, and other disciplines. Residents have been involved in:

  • Exhibitions and screenings
  • Artist talks and informal presentations
  • Workshops with students or local audiences
  • Concerts and cross-disciplinary events

You can treat the gallery as a testing ground, meeting place, or site for sharing work in progress, depending on what’s possible during your stay.

Craftspeople and collaborators

The city’s craft networks are a huge asset. If collaboration is part of your practice, consider:

  • Spending time in weaving workshops before proposing anything, to understand rhythms and pay structures
  • Building relationships slowly rather than rushing into project demands
  • Being clear on credit and compensation if artisans contribute creative labor
  • Documenting process in a way that respects your collaborators’ boundaries and consent

Residency staff can often help with introductions and cultural translation, but you’ll still need to do the daily relational work.

Open studios and sharing work

There is no fixed “open studio weekend” culture, but many residents end up sharing work informally. Options include:

  • An open studio evening for other residents, local friends, and invited guests
  • A talk or slideshow in the gallery or common areas
  • Process-based workshops with local students or neighbors
  • Collaborative performances with musicians or performers

If you want to share work publicly, flag that early in your communication with the residency. That gives everyone time to plan around scheduling, equipment, and promotion.

Is Raman Niwas the right fit for you?

Raman Niwas, through Kriti Gallery & Anandvan Residency, is a strong option if you want:

  • Quiet, garden-based studios with good privacy and daylight
  • An unstructured residency where you control your time and focus
  • Access to Varanasi’s historic and contemporary cultures without living in the noisiest streets
  • Space for research alongside art-making
  • Potential collaborations with weavers, printers, musicians, or scholars

It may be less suitable if your practice depends on:

  • Industrial-scale fabrication or specialized lab equipment
  • Highly structured mentorship, assignments, or daily programming
  • Guaranteed accessibility features that the building cannot provide

If you recognize your working style in the first list, Raman Niwas can act as a steady base for deep, slow work while you build a relationship with Varanasi step by step.

Next steps

To move forward:

Use these resources to match what the residency offers with what your practice actually needs. That alignment matters more than any general description of Varanasi as a city.