City Guide
La Habana, Cuba
How to pick a residency in Havana, work around scarcity, and plug into Cuba’s contemporary art scene
Why artists go to La Habana
La Habana pulls in artists because the art scene is dense, political, and very alive in daily life. You’re not just in a studio bubble here; you’re dropped into a city where art, history, and social reality are constantly rubbing up against each other.
You’ll find a strong ecosystem of institutions, informal networks, and artist-run spaces. Key touchpoints include:
- Centro de Arte Contemporáneo Wifredo Lam, closely tied to the Havana Biennial and critical contemporary discourses.
- Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, where you can trace Cuban art history and see how current practices are in dialogue with it.
- Fábrica de Arte Cubano (FAC) in Vedado, a hybrid venue mixing visual art, performance, music, and nightlife.
- Callejón de Hamel, a key site for Afro-Cuban mural work, performance, and community rituals.
- Independent studios and project spaces sprinkled through Vedado, Centro Habana, and Habana Vieja.
The city rewards artists who want to work with topics like identity, race, memory, migration, architecture, and social life. The visual field is intense: colonial facades flaking into color fields, hand-painted signage, political posters, religious iconography, and everyday improvisations that come out of material scarcity.
A huge magnet, when it’s on, is the Havana Biennial. Even outside those years, exhibitions, public programs, and studio visits keep the scene active, and residencies often act as your shortcut into that ecosystem.
How Havana’s residencies actually feel to work in
Residencies in La Habana tend to fall into three broad modes: semi-programmed, self-directed, and short, intensive programs with critiques and a final show. Each one shapes how you experience the city and how much work you realistically produce.
Unpack Studio – semi-programmed residency
Unpack Studio offers a semi-programmed residency of roughly 2 to 7 weeks for visual artists, curators, performers, and researchers. The structure gives you a base and a network but leaves plenty of room for your own methods.
You get:
- Private and shared workspaces (table, chairs, wall space) in central Havana.
- A meeting hub where you’ll intersect with other residents and local practitioners.
- Chances to interact with Cuban artists, students, performers, galleries, and curators.
- Help arranging specialized facilities (for a fee) such as printmaking studios, wet darkrooms, or sculpture workshops.
The big practical warning from Unpack is that art supplies are hard to find because of Cuba’s economic conditions. You’re expected to bring what you need or be ready to radically adapt your process to what’s available: found materials, local print shops, hardware stores, and the city itself.
This residency fits you if you want a mix of guided connection and self-determined studio time, and if you’re comfortable working with limited resources and a bit of logistical improvisation.
Arthaus – self-directed with space to present
Arthaus Residency is designed for artists who want a lot of autonomy but still appreciate a supportive framework and presentation options. It runs in a self-directed format with flexible stay lengths.
What you get:
- Accommodation in an independent studio that doubles as living and working space, with your own bathroom and kitchen.
- Access to Casa Arthaus, a roughly 54 m² exhibition and project space equipped for video projections and 5.1 surround sound.
- The possibility of a final public event: exhibition, talk, workshop, screening, or hybrid formats.
- Visits to local galleries and studios of Cuban artists.
- Personalized advice for developing your project in Cuba, including curatorial support and portfolio feedback.
- Coordination for airport transfers, which can save you time and guesswork on arrival.
Arthaus has hosted dozens of artists across fine art, theater, film, music, writing, journalism, and new media. The vibe is: you set your own goals, and the residency team helps you situate that work within Havana and frame it for an audience.
This is a good fit if you’re planning a sustained research or production phase, want the option of a public presentation, and prefer more independence than a heavily scheduled program.
CubaSeen Artist in Residency – short and structured
CubaSeen Artist in Residency (run with Santa Fe Workshops) offers a 9-day, highly structured residency anchored in critique, guided exploration, and a final exhibition.
The program includes:
- Accommodation and workspace based at CALIS HAVANA, a boutique hostel in Vedado.
- Structured critiques with Cuban artists and curators, including figures connected to the Wifredo Lam Center and the Havana Biennial.
- Organized visits to galleries and artists’ studios.
- A final exhibition in a gallery space in Old Havana.
- Sessions on editing and sequencing images, and discussions on fine-art printmaking with a master printer.
This residency is intensive and more guided. It suits you if you want critique, feedback from established Cuban professionals, and a clear public outcome, but don’t have the time or budget for a long stay.
For artists traveling from the United States, CubaSeen also positions itself within a legal framework for travel, tying activities to educational exchanges and documentation of Cuban life. That can make the bureaucratic side less daunting if you need to comply with specific regulations.
ROOSTERGNN – multi-city and logistics-heavy
ROOSTERGNN Artist Residency has run programs linking Havana and Trinidad (and sometimes Madrid) for a wide range of creative disciplines. The format mixes travel, production, and documentation, with a strong emphasis on logistics and safety.
The model typically includes:
- Accommodation during the residency.
- 24-hour bilingual local emergency support.
- An orientation coordinator handling logistics and basic project guidance.
- A self-directed project structure, sometimes resulting in shared publications or documentation like photo books.
If you want to focus more on the experience, documentation, and storytelling aspect of working in Cuba, and you appreciate having safety nets in place, this type of program can work well. Always confirm current formats and locations directly with the organizer, as older calls can linger online.
Where you’ll be working: neighborhoods and daily life
Havana is not a generic backdrop. The neighborhood you’re based in will shape your days and your work. Those mentioned in residency materials are especially relevant.
Vedado: cultural hub and residency cluster
Vedado is a major base for residencies like Arthaus and CubaSeen. It mixes residential streets with cultural institutions, embassies, and nightlife.
Why it works for artists:
- Close to venues like Fábrica de Arte Cubano and multiple galleries.
- Easier café and restaurant access, which matters when you’re working long days.
- Quick taxi or colectivo rides to Centro Habana and Old Havana.
- Spaces like CALIS HAVANA that combine lodging with informal meeting and critique zones.
If your practice relies on conversations, studio visits, and some level of comfort, Vedado is often the most practical base.
Habana Vieja and Centro Habana: texture and intensity
Habana Vieja (Old Havana) is dense with colonial architecture, plazas, churches, and tourist flows. You’ll also find galleries and exhibition spaces where residencies sometimes hold final shows.
In Centro Habana, the pace ramps up. It’s crowded, visually layered, and full of small shops, street vendors, and daily-life scenes. Many artists use this area for urban research, photography, sound work, or observational drawing.
If you care about street life and vernacular architecture as raw material, you’ll probably spend a lot of time walking these neighborhoods, even if you’re housed elsewhere.
Miramar and beyond
Miramar has wider streets, embassies, and some cultural institutions and venues. While it’s less of an everyday base for residencies, you may end up there for specific events, studio visits, or openings.
Expect to move between districts by taxi or shared rides. Walking is great for research in your immediate neighborhood, but the city is spread out enough that you’ll be mixing modes of transport regularly.
Money, materials, and making work under scarcity
Cuba can be relatively affordable in some ways, but the reality on the ground can surprise visiting artists. Costs and availability change often, and scarcity is part of daily life.
Budgeting realistically
When planning a residency in Havana, budget for:
- Residency fees or rent.
- Food and water, including eating out when you don’t have energy to cook.
- Transport: taxis, colectivos, and airport transfers if not included.
- Art materials brought from home, plus a contingency for buying local substitutes.
- Connectivity: data, phone credit, and internet access depending on your needs.
- Emergency reserve for unexpected costs or shortages.
The key takeaway from programs like Unpack Studio is simple: do not assume you can buy what you need when you arrive. Bring core tools, specialty materials, and anything that would be difficult or expensive to source in an environment with limited imports.
Working with what you can find
The flip side to scarcity is that it can sharpen your process. Many artists in Havana work with:
- Found or recycled materials from the street, markets, or hardware shops.
- Local print and copy shops for basic repro needs.
- Digital work that doesn’t rely heavily on constant cloud access.
- Photography, video, sound, and research-based practices that use the city as material.
If your practice depends on specialized facilities (printmaking presses, darkrooms, heavy sculpture tools), choose a program that mentions concrete access, like Unpack Studio’s ability to organize specific studios for a fee, or Arthaus’s equipped exhibition space for video and sound. Always confirm details directly with the residency before you commit.
Access, visas, and staying safe
Residencies in Havana also function as guides through bureaucracy and infrastructure, which is part of their value.
Travel, visas, and regulations
Entry requirements depend on your passport, so always check official sources, but some general patterns apply:
- You’ll need a valid passport and the correct form of tourist card or visa.
- Many visitors must have travel health insurance, which Cuban authorities often check on arrival.
- Artists coming from the United States need to fit their travel under an authorized category; some residencies, like CubaSeen, explicitly structure their programs as educational exchanges to align with those rules.
Residencies commonly provide invitation letters or confirmations that you can show to border officials or insurers if needed. Ask for these in advance and keep digital and paper copies.
Getting around day to day
In the city, expect to move by:
- Walking for neighborhood research and short distances.
- Taxis, including classic cars and more modern vehicles.
- Shared taxis (colectivos), which follow set routes and can be cheaper once you understand the system.
- Pre-arranged transport for airport runs and group activities, which residencies like Arthaus often organize.
Build extra time into your schedule. Travel between districts can be slow and unpredictable, so don’t stack your day with back-to-back commitments on opposite sides of the city.
Plugging into the local art community
Residencies in Havana double as introduction machines. They connect you with artists, curators, and spaces you’d struggle to find on your own.
Studio visits and critiques
Programs like Arthaus, Unpack Studio, and CubaSeen emphasize:
- Visits to active studios of Cuban artists.
- Gallery trips, often including smaller or independent spaces.
- Critiques and mentoring by curators or established practitioners.
This means your residency can function not just as production time, but as research into how Cuban artists work, exhibit, and survive within the local system. Take notes, ask direct questions about production methods and logistics, and treat every studio visit as a chance to understand how your own practice might adapt.
Events and institutions to watch
Depending on timing and networks, you may intersect with:
- Exhibitions and public programs at the Wifredo Lam Center and Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes.
- Interdisciplinary nights at Fábrica de Arte Cubano (FAC).
- Openings and screenings at smaller galleries in Vedado and Old Havana.
- Murals, performances, and community events around Callejón de Hamel.
Your residency’s staff usually know what’s happening and how to get you in the room. Tell them what you’re interested in early on—experimental film, performance, social practice, painting, sound—and they can often tune your schedule and introductions accordingly.
Choosing the right residency for your practice
If you’re trying to decide where to apply or accept an offer, map your needs to what each program actually supports.
Choose Unpack Studio if you want:
- A 2–7 week stay with a mix of structure and freedom.
- Built-in access to Cuban artists, students, and curators.
- Support in arranging specialized facilities, and you’re okay paying extra for that.
- A challenge to work under material constraints by bringing your own key supplies.
Choose Arthaus if you want:
- A self-directed residency with flexible length.
- A private live/work studio plus a professional exhibition and event space.
- Curatorial support and portfolio feedback.
- The option to close with a talk, screening, workshop, or show tailored to your project.
Choose CubaSeen if you want:
- A short, intensive residency with clear structure.
- Serious critique from Cuban artists and curators.
- A group dynamic with other visual artists.
- A final exhibition outcome in Old Havana.
Choose ROOSTERGNN if you want:
- A multi-city, logistics-supported experience linking Havana with other Cuban or international locations.
- Strong emphasis on safety, documentation, and orientation.
- A self-directed project with guidance rather than a fully curated program.
Final checks before you apply
Before sending your application or paying a fee, clarify these points with any Havana residency:
- Duration and dates: how flexible are they if your travel shifts?
- What housing actually includes: private or shared, kitchen access, internet, air conditioning.
- Workspace: dedicated studio, shared tables, or mainly field-based work.
- Materials: what is available locally, what you must bring, and any customs restrictions on what you carry in.
- Local support: language help, emergency contacts, help with transport and basic orientation.
- Public outcomes: exhibition, open studio, talk, or none, and who covers printing or installation costs.
- Visa and insurance: documents they provide and what you must secure on your own.
If you approach La Habana as a place for research, connection, and experimentation with constraints, the city and its residencies can shift your practice in ways that stay with you long after you leave. The key is to choose the format that aligns with your working style and to prepare for scarcity so that it becomes part of your method, not a barrier.
